THE MOST COMMON OVERUSE INJURIES OF THE FINGERS IN SPORT CLIMBERS – CURRENT DIAGNOSTIC AND TREATMENT STRATEGIES
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.31435/ijitss.1(49).2026.5423Keywords:
Finger Flexor Tendon Pulleys, Climbing, Tenosynovitis, Epiphyseal Fractures of the Finger Middle JointsAbstract
In recent years, we have observed a rapid increase in the popularity of sport climbing, which is associated with an increased number of finger injuries, particularly among beginners and intermediate climbers. The aim of our study was to present the most common finger injuries in climbers, the mechanisms by which they occur, diagnostic methods, and treatment approaches based on available scientific research.
We focused on three main finger injuries: finger flexor tendon pulleys , inflammation of tendons and synovial sheaths, and phalangeal epiphyseal fractures. We highlighted the mechanisms of injury, particularly in the context of using the “full crimp” grip, which significantly increases the load on the fingers.
Indications for conservative and surgical treatment, characteristic clinical symptoms, and the diagnostic significance of ultrasound and magnetic resonance imaging in pulley injuries were presented. In the case of tendonitis, we highlighted the role of training overload and the effectiveness of conservative treatment. In the context of phalangeal injuries, we highlighted their frequent occurrence in young athletes, appropriate diagnosis, and long-term rehabilitation.
Finger injuries in climbers are a serious problem, the incidence of which is increasing along with the popularity of this sport. Early diagnosis and proper identification are key to a quick return to sport climbing.
Methodology: This study provides an overview of the available scientific research describing the most common finger injuries among sport climbers. In our review, we focused on the mechanisms underlying these injuries, their diagnosis, and possible treatment options.
In our search for available scientific studies, we useed the following databases: PubMed, Scopus and Google Scholar, covering the period 1989–2021. When searching for available clinical studies, we focused on:
- types of injuries (ligament damage, tendinitis and tenosynovitis, phalangeal head fractures)
- mechanisms of injury, with particular emphasis on the ‘full crimp’ grip
- diagnostic methods (ultrasound, magnetic resonance imaging, X-ray)
- treatment strategies (conservative and surgical).
References
Liu, Y., Ji, Z., Zhang, J., et al. (2025). To play the future: Innovating Olympic sports selection for 2032 and beyond. AETR, 13, 1458. https://doi.org/10.56028/aetr.13.1.1458.2025
Miro, P., Miro, E., Ho, T., Feuerborn, M., Crawford, A., & Schöffl, V. (2024). Rock climbing-related injuries: A clinical and imaging overview. Current Sports Medicine Reports, 23(11), 381–391. https://doi.org/10.1249/JSR.0000000000001209
Schöffl, V., Schöffl, I., Frank, L., et al. (2020). Tendon injuries in the hands in rock climbers: Epidemiology, anatomy, biomechanics and treatment—An update. Muscles, Ligaments and Tendons Journal, 10, 233. https://doi.org/10.32098/mltj.02.2020.08
Schöffl, V., Simon, M., & Lutter, C. (2019). Finger and shoulder injuries in rock climbing. Der Orthopäde, 48, 1005–1012. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00132-019-03825-3
King, E. A., & Lien, J. R. (2017). Flexor tendon pulley injuries in rock climbers. Hand Clinics, 33(1), 141–148. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hcl.2016.08.006
Schöffl, I., Oppelt, K., Jüngert, J., Schweizer, A., Neuhuber, W., & Schöffl, V. (2009). The influence of the crimp and slope grip position on the finger pulley system. Journal of Biomechanics, 42(13), 2183–2187. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbiomech.2009.04.049
Schöffl, V., Hochholzer, T., Winkelmann, H. P., & Strecker, W. (2003). Pulley injuries in rock climbers. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 14(2), 94–100. https://doi.org/10.1580/1080-6032(2003)014[0094:PIIRC]2.0.CO;2
Widstrom, C. J., Doyle, J. R., Johnson, G., Manske, P. R., & McGee, R. (1989). A mechanical study of six digital pulley reconstruction techniques: Part II. Strength of individual reconstructions. Journal of Hand Surgery, 14(5), 826–829. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0363-5023(89)80083-8
Dy, C. J., & Daluiski, A. (2013). Flexor pulley reconstruction. Hand Clinics, 29(2), 235–242. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hcl.2013.02.005
King, E. A., & Lien, J. R. (2017). Flexor tendon pulley injuries in rock climbers. Hand Clinics, 33(1), 141–148. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hcl.2016.08.006
Krug, R., Stehling, C., Kelley, D. A., Majumdar, S., & Link, T. M. (2009). Imaging of the musculoskeletal system in vivo using ultra-high field magnetic resonance at 7 T. Investigative Radiology, 44(9), 613–618. https://doi.org/10.1097/RLI.0b013e3181b4c055
Heiss, R., Librimir, A., Lutter, C., Janka, R., Kuerten, S., Roemer, F. W., Nagel, A. M., Uder, M., & Bayer, T. (2021). MRI of finger pulleys at 7T—Direct characterization of pulley ruptures in an ex vivo model. Diagnostics, 11(7), 1206. https://doi.org/10.3390/diagnostics11071206
Schöffl, V., Strohm, P., & Lutter, C. (2019). Efficacy of corticosteroid injection in rock climber’s tenosynovitis. Hand Surgery and Rehabilitation, 38, 317–322. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.hansur.2019.07.004
Schöffl, V. R., & Schöffl, I. (2007). Finger pain in rock climbers: Reaching the right differential diagnosis and therapy. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 47, 70–78.
Schreiber, T., Allenspach, P., Seifert, B., & Schweizer, A. (2015). Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 15, 696–702. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1048747
Mohn, S., Spörri, J., Mauler, F., Kabelitz, M., & Schweizer, A. (2022). Nonoperative treatment of finger flexor tenosynovitis in sport climbers—A retrospective descriptive study based on a clinical 10-year database. Biology, 11(6), 815. https://doi.org/10.3390/biology11060815
Matzon, J. L., Lebowitz, C., Graham, J. G., Lucenti, L., Lutsky, K. F., & Beredjiklian, P. K. (2020). Risk of infection in trigger finger release surgery following corticosteroid injection. Journal of Hand Surgery, 45(4), 310–316. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jhsa.2020.01.007
Schöffl, V. R., Hoffmann, P. M., Imhoff, A., Küpper, T., Schöffl, I., Hochholzer, T., & Hinterwimmer, S. (2018). Long-term radiographic adaptations to stress of high-level and recreational rock climbing in former adolescent athletes: An 11-year prospective longitudinal study. Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine. https://doi.org/10.1177/2325967118792847
Laor, T., Hartman, A., & Jaramillo, D. (1997). Local physeal widening on MR imaging: An incidental finding suggesting prior metaphyseal insult. Pediatric Radiology, 27, 654–662. https://doi.org/10.1007/s002470050206
Schweizer, A., & Göhner Schweizer, K. (2019). Sport climbing, bouldering, and associated injuries in children and adolescents. Der Orthopäde, 48, 998–1004. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00132-019-03826-2
Hochholzer, T., & Schöffl, V. R. (2005). Epiphyseal fractures of the finger middle joints in young sport climbers. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 16(3), 139–142. https://doi.org/10.1580/PR15-04.1
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2026 Adam Kowal , Antoni Majda, Natalia Sitko , Paulina Makowska , Joanna Gontarczyk, Alicja Laske, Martyna Sowa, Julia Pająk, Kacper Kucharski , Anna Kamosińska, Julia Sokołowska, Marcel Dawidowicz

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
All articles are published in open-access and licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (CC BY 4.0). Hence, authors retain copyright to the content of the articles.
CC BY 4.0 License allows content to be copied, adapted, displayed, distributed, re-published or otherwise re-used for any purpose including for adaptation and commercial use provided the content is attributed.

