FINGER TRAINING ON A HANGBOARD: EFFECTIVENESS, SAFETY, AND PREVENTION OF OVERUSE INJURIES IN ROCK CLIMBERS – A NARRATIVE REVIEW
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.31435/ijitss.3(51).2026.6017Keywords:
Hangboard, Finger Training, Overuse InjuriesAbstract
The aim of this narrative review was to synthesize current evidence on the effectiveness, safety, and preventive value of hangboard training in adult climbers. The analysis included 45 studies published between 2016 and 2026 examining finger-strength and endurance development, neuromuscular adaptations, injury risk, and rehabilitation protocols.
The findings indicate that hangboard training significantly increases maximal finger strength and, to a lesser extent, finger endurance. The greatest strength improvements occur when loads exceeding 80% of maximal finger force are applied and when progressive overload is implemented. Submaximal protocols are more effective for enhancing endurance and combining different training intensities may produce cumulative benefits. Training safety depends on gradual load progression, appropriate session frequency, and careful control of overall climbing volume. Incorporating exercises for both flexors and extensors, along with varied grip types, may reduce the risk of overload. Evidence highlights the need for individualized programming due to substantial variation in strength profiles and tolerance to loading among climbers.
Hangboard training is an effective way to develop essential physical qualities in climbing. However, optimizing outcomes and minimizing injury risk require personalized training protocols and systematic monitoring for early signs of overload.
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Copyright (c) 2026 Weronika Kuśmierczyk, Oliwia Grzelak, Oliwia Bolek, Maria Fengier, Justyna Kącikowska, Magdalena Majkowska, Krzysztof Rogulski, Katarzyna Sordyl, Piotr Szczepański, Jakub Trzaskowski
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